Sunday, 15 April 2012

Interview with a baker...






Hello, this is Livvy, and I have been interveiwing dad on making bread(just if you wanted to ask some questions) here they are!


  • Why do you use allinson products to make bread? 
 Because I started off with using them, and im used to how it works. It also is good value for money.
  • Why do you have to rub the butter into the flour?
So there isnt any clumps in the flour.
  • Why do you have to put warm water in the yeast?
 So it activates the yeast.
  • Why do you use a fork to mix?
 Because I dont like getting my hands dirty; what if the phone rings! But I do get my hands in at the end.
  • Why do you have to knead?
It stretches out the gluten and helps the bread rise.
  • What is kneading?
Its a array of stretching and folding and can last from 10 to 20 mins.
  • Why does it have to rise?
Because when you bake it, it will make it nice and fluffy.
  • What is a well?
 A well is digging a hole in the mixture to put the liquid in.


I hope you liked it! If there is any more questions, please post in a comment.

Saturday, 14 April 2012

Tiger Bread...

When I first started baking bread I wanted to do one of those french sticks or batch loaves that had that mottled effect on the crust. I found out that I needed 'special' ingredients for it (ie rice flour) so couldn't be bothered at the time - it was enough of a challenge just to get my standard white bread right!.

Although the correct name is 'Dutch crust' it is commonly in most supermarket bakeries as 'Tiger' bread.
This weekend I bought some ground rice and decided to take the plunge last night.

My family eats a lot of my bread very quickly, so I always bake two loaves at a time - if you just want to do one, simply halve the ingredients.


As with my other recipes, Bold type denotes normal instructions - you can't really skip these, and Italic type are my tips, observations and notes - skip them if you like, but I hope you find them useful.



Basic White Bread Recipe (for two loaves)

  • 1000g strong white flour
  • 3 tsp sea salt - normal salt will do at a pinch
  • 3 tsp sugar
  • 30g unsalted butter, cubed
  • 2 x 7g sachet or 4 tsp of fast action dried yeast 
  • 600ml / 1pt lukewarm water

Topping Recipe (for two loaves)

  • 150 gr rice flour or ground rice
  • 1/4 tsp sea salt
  • 1 tsp sugar
  • 1/2 tsp fast action yeast
  • 200 gr warm water
  • 1 tsp oil
Basic White Bread Method

Switch the kettle on to boil some water.


In a large mixing bowl combine the flour, salt, sugar and yeast. 

It's not essential, but I like to use a whisk to combine them - this has the added benefit of effectively sieving the ingredients which makes the mixture lighter and less prone to clumping when the liquid is added.




Add the butter to the mixture and rub in by pinching it and rubbing it between your thumbs and fingers in the flour, then make a well in the centre of the mixture.

You'll know when you've finished rubbing in the butter when you can't find any large lumps of it in the flour. Don't use margarine - the Hairy Bikers have a very good reason for this : "Because it's crap"....




Fill a measuring jug with 600ml or about a pint of lukewarm water, then pour into the well you made in the dry ingredients.


Lukewarm water recipe : 1/3 boiling water to 2/3 cold water.
It needs to be warm as that will activate the yeast. Too cold and it will take ages for your dough to rise, too hot and you will kill the yeast and you will end up with dwarf bread. As Terry Pratchet has written - dwarf bread is great because it lasts a very long time, mainly because is very hard and no-bugger will eat it.


Being 'waterwise'...
One thing to note is that just few drops of water can make a lot of difference to your bread. 
  • Use too little and your dough will be very hard to kneed and won't rise. 
  • Use too much, and you get a very sticky dough which is just messy and will be prone to collapsing after it has risen. 
I've found that the best way to address this is to use slightly more water than necessary to start with (I'm talking a teaspoon or so here not a cup OK?) and adjust down by a tsp or so on subsequent bakes. If your dough is too sticky you can always add a bit more flour whilst you are kneading it whereas it is more difficult (but not impossible) to add more water once your dough has come together. You'll get a feel for it in the end - I've been training myself to get a 'feel' for how much to use as I am terrible for wanting to follow recipes to the letter regardless of the results!



Watch off, ring's off - time to get sticky fingers...

Either with a fork or with your hands, gradually mix the water and flour together until a fairly stiff dough forms.

Many bakers use this opportunity to get their fingers sticky, but I don't like that as it is inevitable that the phone will ring or I'll have to answer the door or something + I just plain don't like having sticky hands. I use a large tined fork to gradually 'erode' the walls of flour into the well of water. I don't know if this gets better results, but it seems to work for me.

Get your hands in the bowl once the dough gets too stiff to stir. Ideally you should be able to lift the ball of dough out leaving the bowl fairly clean with virtually no 'loose' flour left in the bowl.

Press the dough into the loose mixture to pick it up, turn it then press it again. You can tip it all out onto the work-surface it you like, but I use the 'clean bowl' method as an indication that the dough is ready for kneading.




Knead the dough for about 10 minutes until springy and elastic.




OK - I could write pages on how to knead bread dough, but as two of my baking heroes 'The Hairy Bikers' put it - "There's not really a wrong way to knead dough"...


The main thing to do it just 'work' the dough - stretch it and fold it to get the gluten molecules going. This is how I explain the science bit to the kids....


- The gluten molecules get more stretchy the more you knead the dough.



- This means that they trap the small bubbles of carbon dioxide between them.


- The more you knead the dough the more the bubbles get trapped and the better your bread will be.





So, just stretch and fold and stretch and fold until the dough is springy. When it's ready - you should be able to push your fingers into it and the dough springs back at least half way.










If you're being all poncy about it you can do the 'Window Pane' test. Take a small ball of the dough and stretch it out. If you can stretch it so thin that you can see the light from the window in it, but no holes appear then it's ready.








In the pictures illustrating this it was night so holding it up to the window took a special bit of baking skill - only try this if 
you've been baking for at least 150 years!.





Take a large bowl and very lightly grease it. 


Anti washing up tip : if you ended up with a fairly clean bowl after mixing your dough, just reuse that one










Pop your dough in the bowl, lightly sprinkle the ball of dough with flour, cover with cling film or a shower cap and rest in a warm(ish) place for about an hour or until the dough has risen and roughly doubled in size. 


Just a little bit of olive oil, veg oil or butter rubbed around the bowl with a piece of kitchen roll normally does the trick - you could even use a light sprinkling of flour. It's just to make it easy to remove from the bowl once risen.


I sometimes use a shower cap that I've nicked from a hotel instead of cling film - as long as they don't get dough all over them you can re-use them as well (Thanks again to Si and Dave for that tip!)


As far as a 'warmish' place is concerned, I put my dough on the TV unit we have. Underneath  is the set top box which generates just the right amount of gentle warmth. If you're posh and have a proving drawer in your cooker then that is ideal (and I'm very jealous of you!).Put it in the airing cupboard at your own risk. I don't, as I had a rather disturbing experience doing that as a child - my Mum wasn't happy - we were washing dough out of towels and sheets for weeks!.


After an hour remove the dough from the bowl and 'knock back'.














Just punch the air out of it gently with your knuckles and gently knead it for a couple of minutes












Shape into two loaves and place side by side on a baking tray lined with baking parchment.



Rest for the loaves for about an hour until roughly doubled in size.






If you want to make just normal loaves you can skip the next 'topping' part and just get on with baking them


The Topping
Mix the ground rice, salt, sugar and yeast together in a small bowl. Gradually stir in the boiling water.


I'm not entirely sure that using boiling water is necessary - I have a feeling that that will just kill the yeast, but it probably helps in making the ground rice cells swell up.


Whisk the mixture until you have a consistency similar to thick wallpaper paste, then leave it to cool.


Oh - the recipe that i was following for this was really odd - it seemed to be for an 'industrial' amount of topping. I've adjusted for this in this recipe so dot be surprised if you have just enough to go round rather than the copious amount of stuff that you can see in my photos! This is why I haven't referenced the blog that I got the recipe from as I don't want to get anyone confused...




After about 10 minutes when the mixture has cooled add the oil to the mixture then spread it all over the loaves using a spoon.


I forgot the oil last night, but it still seemed to turn out ok...













Preheat the oven to 210c / 190c fan / 410f / gas mark 6 












When your loaves have doubled in size, bung them in your pre-heated oven for about 30-35 minutes, but check them after 25 minutes.














Having a clean oven door is great - you can watch the bread rise before your eyes and it also makes it easy to keep a check on your loaves without opening the oven door and losing the heat. 




It's worth investing a couple of quid in an oven thermometer as well as you cant necessarily trust what the dial on the cooker says - I used burn stuff all over the place until I followed the  recommendation from Heston to get a cheapo thermo...


Once baked, remove the bread from the oven (well what else are you going to do?) and place the bread on a rack to cool.


All the books and TV programmes say to tap the bottom of the loaf and it should sound hollow. Whilst it makes one feel all professional,  I'm not 100% sure that this it's foolproof. I tend to do things by eye - if the crust looks nice and browned and there has been a nice rise in the oven (aka oven 'spring' )and the loaf has been cooking for roughly the guide amount of time, then I take the bread out of the oven...





Soft Baps...





Everyone likes a soft bap with their burger or pulled pork, but making them is surprisingly different to making normal bread rolls... You can dust with flour to make the traditional 'floury baps' or be a little more adventurous with your toppings - grated cheese, eggy wash and sesame seeds, poppy seeds or even a tiger bread topping .










For the yeast 'sponge'
  • 1½ level tbsp (12g) cornflour
  • 525g strong white flour
  • 1 sachet easy-blend yeast (2tsp fast acting dried yeast)
  • 450ml warm water
For the dough
  • 50ml water (1/4 cup)
  • 75ml milk (1/3 cup)
  • 75g unsalted butter, cut into cubes
  • 2 level tbsp (15g) cornflour
  • 275g strong white flour
  • 50g caster sugar
  • 2½ level tsp salt

First make the 'sponge'
Don't be intimidated by the phrase 'sponge' it's basically a bakers term fora method of activating your yeast mixture.
In a big bowl, toss together or sift the cornflour and flour then mix in the yeast.
Make a well and pour in the water, stir to a soft dough by combining gradually with a fork, cover and leave to rise for two to two and a half hours.
Scary!

Note - you'll need a big bowl 'cos the sponge really rises like crazy and if you misjudge it then you'll have sponge all over your work-surface.
This photo  is of my sponge just 1 1/2 hours after I mixed it together - it was literally half the amount when it started. The original recipe says to use 'easy-blend' yeast, but I've used fast action yeast to the fermenting time is probably shorter than the 2 1/2 to 3 hours some recipes recommend.


mmmm... buttery
Next, make the dough.
In small saucepan, bring the water and milk almost to the boil, then remove from the heat, add the butter and set aside till warm (about 5-10 mins will do the trick).

Pour into a jug and top up with cold water to make up to 200ml.


The ingredients waited like a
coiled spring

 
Toss together the cornflour and flour, add the sugar and salt, and mix. I use a whisk to mix the dry ingredients - it has much the same effect as sieving them...







Combining the lot...
Beat the buttery liquid with the yeast sponge until combined, add the dry ingredients, then mix to a firm dough.
You don't have to use a dough scraper
but if you do make sure it's red....
Ok, so now we get to the
sticky bit, so rings and watches off time..





1.Pull
Turn the dough out onto a well oiled surface, then give it a 5 minute stretch and kneed





2.Stretch


Give the dough three 10-second kneads on an oiled surface over 30 minutes.




3.Stretch more






4.Stretch Armstrong


Set a timer to remind you to kneed the dough as it is easy to forget if you are, say, editing a blog or something....




5.Fold






6.Repeat




aaaand.... rest...






mmm.... clingfilmy goodness....
Cover with oiled cling film leave to rest for 15 minutes





Floury business...
Divide the dough into nine 150g(ish) pieces and shape into balls on a well floured surface.

Place on a baking parchment lined tray, flour the tops, cover and leave to rise for 45 minutes to an hour, until almost doubled in volume.

Don't bother trying to use the
clinfilm you used earlier...
Don't worry if your balls stick together as they rise - this makes the nice classic 'batch' style bap when you break them apart after baking.





This is just 3 minutes in!

Bake for 20-25 minutes.
I normally set the timer for 5 minutes before the recommended end time especially as we have a particularly efficient convection oven...



Hands off!


Try to leave until cold before removing from the tray.












Thanks to Dan Lepard of the Guardian Newspaper for the original soft baps recipe - I've 'tweaked' it in a couple of places + added my  own comments.